Forward and Northbound

An update is long overdue...

Last time I posted, I was switching into Oceanography. Fulfilling all the science prerequisites is tedious, but on the whole it's been a great decision. I've already gotten into some neat projects here, including a GIS project that involves identifying and comparing dimensions of sea ice leads (cracks in the ice that expose open water). The idea is that we can compare the locations, dimensions, and complexity of these leads with known narwhal migration routes and winter habitat to figure out just where they're likely to be in the future.

Finally, I applied for and got accepted to do an REU in Svalbard this summer. The project involves the glacier/fjord/sediment system at Kongsfjorden (Kings Fjord), and our base will be the town of Ny-Ålesund, which, at over 78 degrees north latitude is the "world's northernmost functional public settlement." The trip takes place through July and August, which means 24-hour daylight the whole time we're there. Supposedly internet access there is flawless so I should be able to send updates.

Summer in Kongsfjorden

That's all for now, but hopefully I'll have more details in the next few months.

A Major Change

After consulting with several researchers, friends, and family, I've decided to change my major from Geography to Oceanography (with a coursework focus in physical oceanography and a research focus on polar oceanography).

This decision was made urgently, but not lightly. I'll have to do almost all of the beginning science core classes, and this will mean that I'll be at UW for not only a summer quarter, but an entire fifth year. However, I and several others believe that my previous path hasn't really been challenging me, and that studying a hard, observational science like Oceanography would not only provide a strong academic challenge, but would provide a vital outlet for my already existing skills in GIS and remote sensing, place me in one of the top departments at UW (and one of the top 3 oceanography schools in the nation), and connect me with numerous researchers and opportunities in the department as well as at the UW Polar Science Center that are at the top of their fields and are tackling problems in which I have a strong personal interest.

I know that what is basically starting over may feel tedious at first, but that is a small price to pay for opening a world of academic meaning and an incredible community to me.

Four European Hypocrisies

After spending a little over a month in Europe, there were a few things that began to bug me. Then, after getting back to these United States and refilling my system with some delicious GM high fructose corn syrup, hormone-pumped beef, and cheese spelled with a Z, I've come up with about four things that particularly got on my nerves.

1. I'm no right-winger by any measure, but I really do believe that the socialist systems set up in most European countries can have a negative impact on customer service, if nothing else. If a business is the only business of its kind in a town, maybe because it's government-owned, there's nobody across the street to compete with them for customers. What can be the nicest building with the greatest products in town can have the worst service. I've found a lot of employees in places like this can be really cold and inflexible, with a few exceptions for people who are just naturally nice and/or Austrian.

2. European cigarette cartons all have signs printed on them that take up half the space on the front panel, and say things like "SMOKING CAN KILL YOU" or "SMOKING SERIOUSLY HARMS YOU AND THOSE AROUND YOU." However, a much higher percentage of Europeans smoke than Americans. In America, the warnings are printed much smaller and in legalese, and the influence of lobbyists is far stronger. Yet through various ad campaigns and public education problems, we've drastically reduced the number of smokers down to a very low number in the last 20 years, whereas the only discernible European demographic that does not smoke is infants. High Five, America!

3. I'm definitely not going to accuse all Europeans of being arrogant; that would be completely unfair. And I'm not letting Americans off the hook for this, either. But it's a sad truth that the people who act out most are the most visible. A lot of Europeans are quite proud of the fact that, yes, their country is particularly liberal, they get completely free health care, and their economies are so ridiculously strong that everyone in the middle class can afford upscale clothing. There was a long period of time (about eight years, in fact) where Americans were particularly looked-down-upon in Europe because Bush was president. Could this have been any more unjustified? Only half the country voted for him, and the other half that didn't vote for him outnumbered the population of any European country. Keep in mind that the names of our political parties aren't just the Social Democrats, the Democratic Social Union, and the Christian Social Democrats. The economies in most European countries are so clean and shiny today because they were reset every few decades by things known as World Wars, which the US ended. Whereas we wrote a Constitution over 200 years ago that outlines a plan for a new, freer kind of country that still stands to this day and, despite its enormous size, has not once been occupied, European borders have constantly shifted. And one more thing, Europeans: isn't it ironic how you complain about the dominance of American media and culture, when you yourselves are gobbling it up not only voluntarily, but at a far higher rate than your own cultural output?

4. The cultural compartmentalism and the tiny land areas of European countries, on one hand, make it much easier to reach a political consensus and move forward progressively. On the other hand, it's not easy to be a unique European. Let's take Germany as an example, because I know it best. The average German my age, and most Germans, in fact, would say "I'm from a village/city (the same one my family has lived in for generations), I commute by bike/train, I enjoy football, German food, and going to clubs/bars on the weekend." To most people, this seems like an almost offensive stereotype, yet it's true. The middle class in these countries is enormous, and most people are content with a middle-class upbringing and a middle-class lifestyle for their entire lives. There's no desire for economic, social, or spatial mobility. In the US, parents move to an entirely different coast, a 6-hour flight away. Their parents or grandparents might have arrived in the country from anywhere else in the world. Not everyone is blonde-haired and blue-eyed, and that's why it's easy to see someone and to guess "That guy is German" but not "That guy is American." True, it's easier for Europeans to get things done in their countries. But where's the variety in life, the things that make you unique as a person, and the interest in meeting other people, if everyone is the same and has the same background and goals?

Pack Light

Now that I've been away from home or any permanent sort of home for a little over a month, I feel like I have a handle on what's really needed and what's not when it comes to packing light. I'm talking about the kind of packing light where the amount of stuff you have can only fill up something the size of a daypack, the kind of backpack you'd wear to school. Of course, the climate you're heading to can be a limiting factor, and some of it assumes you'll be in urban areas in developed countries. Nonetheless, I hope my list is useful.

- A towel. Douglas Adams was right. Something, somewhere, sometime will be in a state of wetness when you want it to be in a state of dryness, and there won't be anything else around but your trusty towel. Mine is one of those compact, ultra-absorbent, quick-drying camping towels, and it's already gone far beyond its worth of $20.

-A pair of jeans. Your favorite pair of jeans. You might wear them for a week or two without washing, but they're sturdy, and it's not like anybody is going to be smelling your pants, unless you've been all but begging for that.

-A pair of shorts. These serve at least four purposes. 1. If it's hot. 2. If you want to go swimming (hopefully the shorts are good for that). 3. If you prefer to sleep in shorts. 4. When you're washing your jeans.

-Two shirts. These are both suited for the average climate of where you're heading. Too hot? Roll the sleeves up. Too cold? Put the other shirt on, on top of the one you have on now. They should be extremely durable, because they're going to be absorbing sweat, food, smoke, and more. Don't worry about the smell, because it's just what Axe Body Spray is going for these days anyway.

-Toothbrush and Toothpaste. It goes without saying, but brush after every meal, if you can. The toothpaste can also serve as mouthwash or a breathmint.

-Dental floss. You'll get stuff stuck between your teeth, and it's good hygiene to floss anyway. It can also serve as emergency string.

-Reusable Water Bottle. It doesn't matter what kind you get, and it's really your choice if you want one with BPAs floating around in it - they're delicious. Use it for water, and try to keep it full wherever you go, because you never know when you might need it. Of course, you can always fill it with some other beverages or even use it as a container when cooking.

-A non-computer with wi-fi connectivity. I use my iPod touch, and a lot of cell phones are also great for this. You can check your email, Facebook, whatever, and really, you don't need to post your pictures until you get home.

-A Jacket. Either fleece, or a combination fleece+rain jacket. Sweatshirts are far too bulky.

-A Rain Coat. Either get a compactible one that you wear on top of your jacket, or, as above, just have a warm jacket that has a waterproof layer.

-One Book, and only one. You're not going to have time to read the other one.

-Drugs: one bottle of painkillers, one bottle of stomach relief. These two should be able to fix 90% of the ailments you run into, whether you ask for them or not.

-A pen/pencil. You'll need to write notes sometimes, but you'll always be able to find something to write on, at the very least, yourself.

-All-purpose Soap. This soap can be used on your hair, body, face, clothes, and almost anything else. If think you need a bunch of cosmetics, you're never going to pack light.

-Underwear and Socks as needed. I find that 3 days per pair is the normal maximum, and you can go over if necessary. Really, unless there's dirt or bugs on the stuff, it's nothing to worry about.

I think I've left a few things out, but that brings me to another point (again, it might only apply in developed countries):

-If you leave something out, you can always get it at your destination.

Happy travels!

On Being Cold

Here’s something I was pondering while sweating my guts out in Puerto Rico a few weeks ago, and while freezing my face off in the 40 degree rain while hopping across the lava rocks somewhere in Iceland: why, in the end, it’s a much more enlightening thing to feel cold and to be out in the cold rather than to be basking in the warm sun. This isn’t some moral judgment I’m making, that tanning in the tropics is sinful and you should really learn how to build an igloo. Rather, that being cold, feeling the sting of freezing rain on your face, and wishing you had brought an extra sweater allows you to better comprehend and appreciate the utter joy and miracle of your existence. Let me explain:

The human body is a highly evolved system, so highly evolved that today, in order to hop around on lava fields or trudge your way to the beach, all you need to give your body in return are a few delicious meals and a few gulps of water a day. If you go out and party, have a few drinks, and jump around and make a fool of yourself until 6am, your body will clean out your blood and heal your muscles, up to a certain point. In return, your body will ask for ten or so hours of awesome, post-party sleep.

So, in exchange for life’s basic functionality, all we need are food and sleep. And I daresay we’ve made quite and art and pleasure out of these.

When you’re cold, you can feel the tips of your nose, cheeks, fingertips, and toes going numb as your body pulls more blood and heat toward its core. At this core is your heart, the machine that supplies oxygen, heat, and energy to all the other organs, especially the brain, which in turn supplies coordination and control. These keep functioning, as long as you give them the aforementioned fuel, and as long as you keep them within certain operating temperatures.

However, let’s say you’re in the tropics. There, you could even be dead, and you’d still be lying there in the sun at about the same temperature, getting a nice tan. You’d probably be getting the same amount of work or exercise done too, and the only noticeable difference would be your decreased ability to order piña coladas.

Strange as it sounds, I actually started laughing as the wind plastered ice pellets in my face and my socks filled up with water. I was turning my attention inward to the completely fantastic machines operating inside me, keeping my innards at a balmy 98.6 degrees, and moving my lungs and legs in an efficient rhythm. Maybe even more special was the fact that, despite all this, I could see and remember the incredible landscape, hear the waterfall roaring in the distance, and smell the mix of sulfur and rain.

So, next time it’s cold outside, go out and walk around until your teeth are chattering, and be thankful for it. Then go inside, have a mug of hot chocolate and a double cheeseburger, and then take a nap.

Beautiful.

Comfort

Looking back, I realize that all the times in my life where I've had real, meaningful change and development have been times where I've been somewhere in transition, somewhere foreign and out of the usual, or somewhere genuinely uncomfortable. I never realize it at the moment; I'm always cold, hot, exhausted, dirty, and focusing on nothing more than how long and how much effort it's going to take to get back to somewhere with a bed and a cheeseburger. That is all I can think about, because I don't have the in-the-moment attention style of Virginia Woolf, but a results-based way of viewing the world. If I slipped into a conscious willing of discomfort, then it would be the solution, but would also go against the deep grain of human nature.

Humans are the first sedentary creatures, and this gives us unique problems like technology and philosophy that no other species has the "luxury" for. Our stone age ancestors used our drive for comfort as a necessity. Wanting shelter, food, and fire fueled our drive for them, and those who could get it built upon their life, evolution, and success for centuries until we had taken care of our basic necessities and started building inventions and civilizations. But once we've reached our "modern" level of development, our quest for comfort becomes our downfall. The best example of this is widespread obesity, especially in this country. Early humans ate all they could get their hands on, always bingeing because they didn't know where their next meal would come from. As we started to lock down our basics, we developed agriculture and domestication, now to the point of our modern food industry. We don't have to hunt and gather anymore, but we still eat as if it were our last meal for a long time.

Sedentary culture means that we have the ability to sit down and write about things like this, and that there are things like this to write about in the first place.

But what am I going to have to do to attune myself to a life of voluntary discomfort and basic urgency? I already recognize its value after the fact, seek out these experiences before the fact, and miss them when I'm full, cushioned, and bored. The last piece in the tetrad is presentist, conscious actualization. I have no choice but to be up to the challenge.

---

I was just reading an introduction to Moby Dick, and it had a quote from the book:

"The port would fain give succor; the port is pitiful; in the port is safety, comfort, hearthstone, supper, warm blankets, friends, all that's kind to our mortalities. But in that gale, the port, the land, is that ship's direst jeopardy; she must fly all hospitality;... With all her might she crowds all sail off shore... seeks all the lashed sea's landlessness again; for refuge's sake forlornly rushing into peril; her only friend her bitterest foe!"

Herman Melville said in one metaphor what it took me an entire page to get across.

Or Thoreau, in Walden, in just one sentence:

"Most of the luxuries, and many of the so-called comforts of life, are not only not indispensable, but positive hindrances to the elevation of mankind. "

Mt. Funkytowne

Do your mountains look like this?

Mine do.